Do-it-yourself plastic welding – A how to fix your smashed stuff

Since I destroyed my front fender at Little Desert, and subsequently finding out that a new one was almost $400, I decided to do some patch repair. You can do this yourself. Just use a well ventilated area and/or some sort of breathing apparatus. I wont be responsible for your own suffocation!

Intro tune: Other – “Centimetal” (Knife Party Cover) by bXmMusic is licensed under a Creative Commons Licence.


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Comment (44)

  1. When l was about 14 -15 years old , I used to mold model plastic cars this way .chop tops &all . Build up the outside 'welds' &file /sand them smooth &paint. Worked great . By the way , that was 60 years ago .

  2. After watching this video and reading some comments, I found some abs glue in my workshop.
    Amazingly it worked on the crack I had in my black roof rack cap. Almost invisible repair from the exterior.
    I mushed it around with a fine nail and then spread open the break, worked it in and voila.

  3. 1 little thing. Sometimes less is more. Every bunp, crack, imperfection is a beginning break. This means, if you have a rough surface, it has beginning breaks. A break has a tendency to grow larger. 🙂 So a polished surface is much less likely to crack/break. So even when you remove material, it is in fact getting stronger.

  4. If you make some small sand bags from the legs of old pairs of jeans you will find them invaluable for supporting and holding down awkward jobs like this one. You can make a nest of them to support it and a few to weigh it down and stop it from moving around. Almost free and very useful

  5. Brilliant ! – An extra method that can be used for strenthening that I have seen is to use some stainless steel fine mesh and melt it into the back to reinforce and then plastic fill over it.

  6. Well done, a great video, but i'd just like to make a suggestion. If you were to put more of the ABS over the crack on the outside just enough for it to stand proud of the polished area, it could be sanded down so as not to leave a "battle scar" if you wished. Anyway thanks for a great video. Keep up the good work.

  7. Pop down to your local Jaycar they've got an 80watt flat tipped soldering iron for a bit over $20 which gets really hot and gives a much bigger working area, while you're there pick up a big bag of small zip ties they're usually ABS and come in a variety of sizes to suit

  8. I learned a trick-after I make a good seam-I add a cross hatching of heated metal stitches. Heating metal stitching, such as wider staples, (straightened) until you can cover them over with the plastic adds strength.

  9. You can also buy some small resin pellets, they are really inexpensive and you can use a heat gun and a thick metal ashtray to practice the exact melting point. Once you've got the gist of it you can easily fix any cracked material, but I suggest glueing it with crazy glue before welding the parts together. You can also use liquid resin and a catalyst mixed and applied with a paintbrush to coat the area after you are done.

  10. on any structural parts you really should melt in a piece of stainless steel mesh. it'll never break there again. if you cant get s.s. mesh , brass will work. at the very least aluminium window screen does a great job too

  11. If the part is actual ABS then you can get yourself some acetone and douse the cracks with that, it will melt the plastic and if you press it together it will work like glue. A bit easier then soldering the whole way through.
    However if it's not ABS acetone will not touch it and this process works best for those plastics.

  12. I would have repaired maybe 50 – 100 motorbike fairings over time sucking in lots of the fumes while I was at it. Perhaps that is what's wrong with me?
    Instead of using the Dremel, if you V out the crack using a nice hot soldering iron, it not only tacks it together but you leave that plastic on the fairing to build up a thickness around the crack. You use less welding rod that way to achieve the same result.
    Although most of my welds were with a hot air gun, I did do quite a few with just a soldering iron, but came at it from the other direction, having the soldering iron in front of the welding stick, so the melted stick was pushing into the melted crack before it. That is the best way to get a strong weld with good penetration. Do you know what I mean? Once you have done one side, you then V out the other side and start the process again to get really good strength.


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