#172 1957 panhead STD head conversion drag bike race harley scta lsr 2019 season tatro machine

20190506192633 1
#172 1957 panhead STD head conversion drag bike race harley scta lsr 2019 season tatro machine

here we go again, another late night thrash to get my panhead ready for a drag race. customer project during the day and my race bike work after midnight, that is my time. see what we do here at tatro machine to get the job done no Mather what.
my drag bike is a real 1957 harley using as many oem parts as possible.
with my 5 day timetable am i going to be racing my panhead with a shovelhead topend again or is it going to be a panhead like i want to run. STD heads or stock.
if all else fails am i going to have to race my 1942 WLA military stroker 45 flathead bike again. it is a fun bike to race too.
tatro

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Comment (9)

  1. Cluster powder coat attempt saved vid by the return of Sir Alan, with pizza no less. Nice to hear your voice again Alan. Your poor results are mostly due to a garbage gun that can not provide proper flow. Way back when I had the unpleasure of using one, I found that putting only a small amount of powder into the gun bottle kept the powder from compacting in the jar, compacting prevents the gun from sucking the powder up into the air stream. That is why when you removed the jar and put it back on it worked for a few then not. Dry powder is very important when using that gun. Pro systems have a air jet at the powder tube intake to keep the powder fluff up for a important reason. That gun is prone to throwing clumps of powder. Higher pressure and backing away from the part helps prevent clump coating the part BUT it uses up more powder. A down side about making that gun work better. Letting the powder partially fall downward onto the part, not shooting directly at it like a spray can paint will help with even coating. Curing temps are critical. Time and temps must be held for proper flow out. Pre heating the oven to temp is required. The time to cure STARTS only as the powder has just flowed out. 10 minute cure only, no more no less. That rim looked very under cured. Heavy metal takes much more time to reach flow out than tin parts. A window into the oven is needed to see flow out without opening the door, loosing the heat and causing a cold strike to the parts. A fan in the oven prevents uneven temps inside that can cause one side of a part to blister and the other side to be ok. Guessing will get exactly what you ended up with. Poor flow out and a rough finish. Then there is powder quality, that would take half a day to discuss. Bottom line, buy the best you can from a sound supplier. I suggest 'Powder by the Pound', on the web, for small users. Powder from the likes of Harbor Freight and Eastwood, etc. are mostly old outdated stock that do not flow well and/or dull results. Storage of powder is important. Well sealed in a temp controlled environment, away from summer heat. I like a frost free refrigerator for small quantities to preserve long usability. Powder has a shelf life !!! I have coated tons of parts and use commercial gun/booth/oven. GOOD LUCK !! Regards/greg

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